City guide

Split, Croatia

Split is a city built inside a Roman emperor's retirement palace, its medieval apartments and restaurants crammed into the same walls Diocletian ordered c...

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Journal moments from Split

Inside Diocletian's Palace at Night

Inside Diocletian's Palace at Night

After dark, when the day visitors have gone, Diocletian's Palace becomes something stranger and more compelling than a tourist attraction. The narrow stone passageways between the...

Morning Coffee on the Riva

Morning Coffee on the Riva

Split's waterfront promenade is where the city comes to drink coffee and watch the harbor with a seriousness that suggests both are important civic duties. I joined in on my first...

The Mestrovic Gallery

The Mestrovic Gallery

Ivan Mestrovic was Croatia's greatest sculptor and the gallery he built to house his own work sits in a seaside villa above Split with views out to the islands. The rooms are full...