City guide

Rome, Italy

Rome, Italy's eternal stage, layers crumbling forums and baroque fountains beneath laundry-strung alleys where Vespas dart past espresso bars, the Colosse...

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Personal stories

Journal moments from Rome

Sunrise Over the Colosseum

Sunrise Over the Colosseum

I set my alarm for 5 a.m. and stumbled through empty cobblestone streets toward the Colosseum before the tour buses arrived. In that thin morning light, the ancient arches glowed...

Lost in Trastevere After Midnight

Lost in Trastevere After Midnight

Nobody warned me that Trastevere becomes its truest self after midnight. The narrow lanes smelled of jasmine and frying garlic, a guitarist playing on an ivy-covered corner while...

The Vatican at Eye Level

The Vatican at Eye Level

Everyone talks about looking up inside the Sistine Chapel — the craned necks, the hushed gasps, the ceiling that makes you dizzy. What nobody mentions is the floor. While tour g...