City guide

Fes, Morocco

Fes is the cultural and spiritual cradle of Morocco, housing Fes el-Bali, one of the world’s largest and best-preserved medieval car-free urban areas. N...

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Personal stories

Journal moments from Fes

First steps into Fes el-Bali

First steps into Fes el-Bali

Fes el-Bali swallowed me almost immediately, its lanes so narrow that buildings seemed to lean in to whisper above my head. Donkeys pushed past loaded with goods, their hooves rin...

Overlooking the Fes tanneries

Overlooking the Fes tanneries

From a rooftop above the tanneries, the scene looked like a painter's palette gone wild—dozens of stone vats filled with reds, yellows, browns, and whites. Men moved between the...

Tea break in a hidden courtyard

Tea break in a hidden courtyard

Somewhere deep in the medina, a small sign pointed to a café up a set of creaking stairs. At the top, a courtyard opened unexpectedly, with tiled floors, carved wooden balconies...