City guide

Lisbon, Portugal

Sprawled across seven dramatic hills, Lisbon is a sun-kissed capital where yellow vintage trams clatter up steep alleys and historic pastel-colored buildi...

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Journal moments from Lisbon

First tram ride in Lisbon

First tram ride in Lisbon

I climbed onto an old yellow tram and it groaned its way up a steep Alfama hill, brushing so close to balconies I could almost touch drying laundry. Tiles flashed by in blue and w...

Miradouro sunset over the Tagus

Miradouro sunset over the Tagus

At sunset, people drifted toward the viewpoint with pastel beers and paper cones of snacks, all angling for a spot along the wall. The river slowly changed from silver to deep ora...

Getting lost in Alfama lanes

Getting lost in Alfama lanes

Alfama’s lanes seemed determined to ignore the map: staircases ended in small courtyards, alleys tilted unexpectedly, and every corner revealed a new patch of azulejos. Fado mel...