City guide

Jeju City, South Korea

Jeju City is the windswept gateway to Korea’s volcanic island paradise, defined by dramatic basalt shores, black-sand beaches, and lush subtropical fore...

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Personal stories

Journal moments from Jeju City

First steps on Jeju’s black rock coast

First steps on Jeju’s black rock coast

Just outside Jeju City, the coastline switched from sidewalks to black lava rock, waves foaming bright white against the dark shore. The wind smelled like salt and tangerine peel...

Market tastes in Jeju City

Market tastes in Jeju City

Inside the market, stalls overflowed with mandarins, dried fish, and sweets shaped like the island’s stone statues. I tried samples I couldn’t name in Korean and walked out wi...

Hallasan hiding in the clouds

Hallasan hiding in the clouds

From downtown, Hallasan’s outline kept drifting in and out of clouds like a shy giant watching the island. Even when I stayed at sea level, its presence made Jeju City feel less...