City guide

Odesa, Ukraine

Odesa is the rebellious, sun-drenched muse of the Black Sea, humming with jazz, sailors' lore, and a distinct, self-deprecating humor. The city unfolds al...

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Personal stories

Journal moments from Odesa

First sight of the Potemkin Stairs

First sight of the Potemkin Stairs

Standing at the top of the Potemkin Stairs, the steps seemed to run endlessly down toward the port, shrinking people into small moving dots. The sea stretched out beyond, dotted w...

Strolling along Odesa’s Primorsky Boulevard

Strolling along Odesa’s Primorsky Boulevard

Primorsky Boulevard offered shade from tall trees and views over the water, with elegant buildings lining one side and the sea breeze filling the other. Benches hosted quiet conve...

Beach afternoon on the Black Sea

Beach afternoon on the Black Sea

Down at one of Odesa’s beaches, music from nearby bars blended with the sound of waves rolling onto the sand. Sunbathers stretched out on towels and loungers, while kids jumped...