City guide

Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi hums with the sound of motorbikes, street vendors, and clinking glasses from tiny cafés tucked into every corner. Around Hoàn Kiếm Lake, the cit...

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Journal moments from Hanoi

Old Quarter Mornings in Hanoi

Old Quarter Mornings in Hanoi

Hanoi’s Old Quarter woke up with the clatter of tiny plastic stools and the hiss of boiling broth. Motorbikes wove through impossibly narrow streets, dodging flower sellers and...

Hoàn Kiếm Lake at First Light

Hoàn Kiếm Lake at First Light

At first light, Hoàn Kiếm Lake belonged to the locals. Elderly couples practiced slow tai chi, joggers traced the path beneath old trees, and loudspeakers played soft morning m...

Egg Coffee and Stories

Egg Coffee and Stories

In a hidden Hanoi café up a narrow staircase, I tried egg coffee that tasted like dessert and history in the same cup. The walls were stained with old smoke and photographs, and...